Gijon is Asturias's largest city and most spirited port — an industrial coastal town that has reinvented itself as a cultural and gastronomic destination while retaining every bit of its authentic, un-touristy character. The Roman baths in the Cimadevilla old quarter, the dramatic Cerro de Santa Catalina headland with Eduardo Chillida's sculpture, and the long San Lorenzo beach curving away from the city centre define a port that rewards exploration. Above all, Gijon is the capital of Asturian cider culture: watching a local pour the sidra from arm's length in any of a hundred cider bars is one of the most distinctive food experiences in Spain.
Asturian sidrerias pour cider in half-bottle rounds shared at the table — when the waiter pours, drink it quickly (it goes flat fast). Order the fabada as a starter rather than a main; it's very filling and usually arrives in a full terracotta pot meant for the whole table. Lunch service starts late even by Spanish standards (around 2pm).
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