Heraklion is the bustling capital of Crete, Greece's largest island, and the gateway to the Palace of Knossos — the labyrinthine centre of Europe's oldest civilization, the Minoans. The city pairs a lively Venetian harbour and a world-class archaeology museum with easy access to beaches and mountain villages. It's history-rich but down-to-earth, with superb Cretan food.
Knossos makes far more sense with a guide (or after the museum, where the original frescoes live). It gets hot and crowded by midday, so go early — and don't leave without trying dakos and a sip of raki.
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